When you select a fill object, the Properties panel on the right shows settings that control how the stitches are generated. Here's what each setting does:
Fill Type
- Tatami - The standard fill pattern. Rows of stitches at a set angle, with stagger to avoid visible split lines.
- Spiral - Rings that follow the shape's outline, worked from the edge inward and joined into one continuous path, so the stitching winds toward the centre without a jump. Good for circles, ovals, and organic shapes where straight rows would look mechanical.
- Cross Stitch - Two passes crossing each other in an X pattern. Because the coverage is doubled, it defaults to 1 mm row spacing with no underlay: at tatami spacing the two passes merge into a solid slab and the lattice stops reading, and an underlay would show through the deliberate gaps.
- Motif Fill - A small running-stitch drawing (a heart, a star, a wave) repeated in rows across the shape, the open, decorative fill used on quilting and home decor. Pick the motif from the library, then set its size, the column and row spacing (equal to the size makes the motifs touch and chain into each other), a row shift for a brick pattern, and the angle. Motifs at the edge are clipped to the outline, or left out with "Whole motifs only". Closed motifs are sewn "Solid" by default: the outline is filled by the same engine as the satin fill, with the same pointed rungs, and the stroke spacing is the satin fill's row spacing measure (0.38 mm by default). Switch Solid off for an outline. Each row sews as one running stitch, so a fill of touching motifs has almost no visible joins; spaced motifs are linked by a straight run along the row, like beads on a string. Where the shape has a hole or a bay, rows travel along the edge rather than jumping, so there is at most a trim or two on the whole fill. No underlay and no pull compensation, because there is nothing to cover or pull.
- Program Split - A satin fill whose needle points sit on a pattern, so the pattern shows in the sheen of the thread: a Greek key, bricks, waves, scales, hexagons, a chain, a vine. The stitches never change direction; only the places where the needle goes down move, and because every row crosses the same line at the next point along, those points draw the line. Pick a pattern from the library, then set its size, the pattern angle (separate from the stitch angle), and the column and row spacing and offsets. It sews exactly as the satin fill does, with the same row spacing, stitch length and sharp edges, and the pattern lives in the sheen, so it wants a flat area of 15 mm or more on a stable fabric. One thing to know: the pattern shows only where the stitches cross its lines. A stroke that runs along the stitches disappears, so each pattern sets the stitch angle that suits it when you pick it, and turning the angle changes what you see.
Angle
Controls the direction of the stitch rows. 0 is horizontal, 90 is vertical, 45 is diagonal. You can type a number or drag the circular dial to set it visually. Different angles create different light reflections on the finished embroidery, which is how professionals create shading effects.
Row Spacing (Density)
The distance between stitch rows in millimeters. Smaller values create denser, more opaque fills. Larger values create lighter, more open fills. Typical values are 0.3-0.5mm for most designs.
Max Stitch Length
The maximum length of a single stitch within a row. Longer stitches cover more area but can snag or loop on real fabric. Typical values are 5-8mm.
Stagger
Offsets the needle penetration points on alternating rows so they don't line up. Without stagger, you get a visible ridge or "split line" running through the fill. A typical value is 0.25 (25%). Set to 0 to disable.
Pull Compensation
Expands the fill slightly beyond the shape outline to compensate for fabric pull-in during stitching. On real fabric, dense stitching pulls the material inward, making the finished area slightly smaller than designed. A value of 0.1-0.3mm helps.
Underlay
A base layer of stitches sewn before the top fill. It stabilizes the fabric and gives the top stitches a fuller, raised appearance.
- None - No underlay. Use for small shapes or lightweight fabric.
- Tatami - A light fill at a perpendicular angle. Good general-purpose underlay.
- Zigzag - A sparse zigzag pattern. Lighter than tatami underlay.
- Edge Walk - Stitches along the shape outline only. Good for stabilizing edges without adding bulk.